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Search CarBuyingTips.com Buying New Cars How To Buy New Cars Buy Cars Online First Time Car Buying Tips Hybrid Car Buying Tips Extended Auto Warranty Tips Canadian Car Buying Tips Top 10 Car Dealer Scams Military Personel Car Buying Our Reader's New Car Deals Auto Finance Auto Loans, Tips & Scams Auto Refinance Tips & Scams Bad Credit Auto Loan Tips Used Car Loan Tips Get Your Credit Report Online Car Insurance Buying Tips Used Cars Vehicle History Reports How To Buy Used Cars Selling Your Used Car Used Car Classifieds Auto Auction Buying Tips Auto Leasing New Car Leasing Tips ALG Residual Values Car Leasing Software Reviews Government Sites Attorney General Sites DMV Sites - All 50 States Drivers License Sites Take A Break Rate Your Dealer Experience Free Spreadsheet Downloads Humor: Alternate Car Names RV Buying Tips & Scams How To Jump Start A Car LoserCars.com Crash Of The Month Gallery Furniture Buying Tips	Chapter 5: Negotiating Tips and dealer scams In this Chapter: We'll examine how to negotiate your offer with the dealer. We'll review car buying sites from InvoiceDealers, Cars.com, Yahoo!Autos, Autos.com, Edmunds.com, MyRide.com and CarsDirect to lookup how much dealers pay for cars, and get free car purchase quotes. What salespeople will say to you and how to control the conversation. We'll also look at several common scams that salespeople can use to mislead you. Jeff's Car Buying Physics Rule #7: For every $1000 you drop off MSRP, your monthly payments on a 48 month 10% loan will be $25 less.TM Your Car Buying Negotiating Strategy You know what the dealer paid for the car, you've calculated your 5% profit offer, and you're in a better position than most customers. Get the paperwork from someone who recently bought a car to become familiar with buyers forms. Now you won't be intimidated when it's show time because you know how their forms work. They are very confusing. Complete The Deal Quickly If you make an offer as spelled out here, the salesperson might only get $50 for the deal if they are on commission. So don't play games about whether you are financing through them or not, just get the deal done and get out. You hopefully have financing already approved by a bank or credit union. The deal is not worth it if they are haggling with you 2 hours to get it. Try to complete the deal in a half hour. You are offering them the same type of deal that is offered, and accepted every day at other dealerships. Set your watch alarm for 30 minutes, and point out to them that if the deal is not agreed upon by that time, you'll leave. Every time the salesman disappears to review an offer with the sales manager, inform them they just ate up 10 minutes. If you can't convince them in a half hour, you'll never convince them, because now the salesperson has past the point where $50 is no longer worth it, and they want more, and won't take anything less no matter what. Never Negotiate On An Empty Stomach Before you go to negotiate eat a good meal, make sure you are rested, showered, and dressed comfortably. Dress casually, not in shorts and a T-shirt with your lint filled belly button showing, but in nice jeans or dockers and look smart. Walk in there looking like Warren Buffet, not Jimmy Buffet. Do NOT go car shopping if you are sick, have a fever or a headache. Bring a low priced financial calculator with you, like Hewlett Packard or TI with loan calculation functions. The most dangerous situation for a buyer is not knowing how to check the numbers. You've already played with the numbers, so you know what your payments should be. Bring a folder with all your notes, printouts, Fighting Chance documents, ads from other dealerships, and prices from the internet. This sends a clear message that you did your homework. They dread seeing "the folder". Go in near the end of relaxing day for you, and a tiresome day for them. You might even try stretching before you go, because negotiations will tense you up. Be sure you have all model option prices in hand in case you need to price a car with different options than you had planned on. For car loans don't forget sites such as Capital One Auto Finance and HSBC Auto Finance, with lower APR than banks & approval online in minutes. You can get new car loans, or used car loans. They Fed Ex your check the same day, so you could apply today, and pay for your car tomorrow, it's that quick. Finance your car in advance and avoid all the warranty and window etch loan scams at the dealer.

During negotiations, they'll pull every trick in the book to bump up your offer, it's just part of negotiations. But often it's unfair, if they use more than one salesperson on you. That's why we should go in with a buyers team and each one of us will take turns working them. Any place charging MSRP doesn't deserve your money. Here's some Jedi mind games they use:

"These cars are flying out of here, there's no reason to lower our price. We can get top dollar, because everyone wants to be in this car."

NOT TODAY! Bah, Bye. If you threaten to leave, they try to call your bluff and panic you.

"Jeff, this deal is only good today. Tomorrow I won't be as generous. You're stealing all my profits. When you come back tomorrow, I can't promise you'll get this excellent price. 3 other buyers are looking at it."

He also had 3 people walk out without buying. The deal will still be there tomorrow if they did not sell the car. If they say "This deal is only good today", Tell them "So is my offer", then run, don't walk out of that devilship. Oooops! I meant to say dealership.

They'll show you the chalkboard of cars your salesman sold this weekend. Use it against them when they cry that you're stealing food from their children with your low ball offer. Tell him he sold a lot of cars this weekend, his children aren't starving. Turn it around on him. Tell him he's stealing food from your children's mouths! You can't afford to feed your kids with their deal. Many books tell you to shop at the end of the month for better deals, as they are desperate to meet sales quotas and may part with less profit. I feel this gives you a false sense of security, so don't let your guard down. They will be just as stingy on the last day of the month as they are on the first. They don't always give you a good deal on previous year cars at new model changeover. I think the best time to buy is a combination of the end of the month, AND a factory to dealer incentive. If a manufacturer sets a dealer goal to sell 10 models of a car for the month with 9 cars sold so far, and you walk in on the 29th, name your price.

Once you make your offer, don't budge.
You have the numbers worked out already on your spreadsheet so justify them before the salesperson has a chance to interrupt. You are talking so you are in control of the conversation. If they try to interrupt, raise your hand indicating for the salesperson to stop. Go through your speech of how you arrived at these numbers, and don't let them speak until you are done. Remind them of the big picture. You are offering them a profit on the car, but they'll also profit from you in the future for warranty repairs, service, parts, and body shop. Those departments are more profitable than the new car department. The salesperson might laugh. They could care less, next month they'll be working up the street for a dealer who has the next hot selling car. If they laugh, don't stop explaining until you are done. When you are finished, tell them you are making this offer to other dealers, you refuse to take less, and you know one of the other dealers will accept your offer. Once they sense your confidence, they'll know you are serious, you intend to get what you are looking for, and they might accept your offer. They'll shout at you, call you names, and accuse you of stealing from their kids. This is part of the game. They'll shave a bit off MSRP, but stick to your guns. Don't get angry, don't shout back, just remain calm, patient, and mature. Don't insult them back, let them be the immature person. Above all, remain calm and confident, and don't be confrontational because you know you'll get the deal, maybe not here and today, but someone will accept your deal. Emotion is contagious, so if you are calm, friendly, intelligent and professional they will be too.

They may offer to split the difference. "Jeff, We are splitting the difference with you, giving up 50%, work with us." If it's more than 5% profit, they are still not giving up enough. Don't budge! Don't give in more than a few hundred dollars from your offer. Be prepared to walk if you have to. The deal will still be here tomorrow if you can't beat it. Tell them you know of the incentives and they'll still make a fair 5% profit. "But Jeff, we have overhead and we paid $13000 for this car". Wrong. They borrowed to buy this car, and it costs around $150 in floor plan interest each month. Remind them of this and assuming the car was there 4 months (it better not have been or the dealer would fire his sales manager), it cost them $600. The dealer doesn't shell out $20000 to buy a car, just the loan payment on that $20000. He would go out of business if he did. A smart business leverages money. To buy an investment condo for $100000, if I have $100000 in cash, I'm not going to buy it outright, I'll invest $20000 in 5 condos and leverage my cash. So don't fall for their lies. The salesman probably does not even know this.

Want more ammunition? Remind them that dealers are losing money to internet brokers, and other online car salespeople. They'll tell you internet sellers rip people off, but you know better. We'll review car buying sites like InvoiceDealers, Cars.com, Yahoo!Autos, Autos.com, Edmunds.com, MyRide.com and CarsDirect to lookup how much dealers pay for cars, and get free car purchase quotes. The reason people are flocking to sites and other online programs is because they are tired of the scams and they can get a cheaper price from the comfort of their own home PC. Tell the salesman you are not in the mood to waste any time and you'll make this same offer to other dealerships if they say no.

Money Saving Negotiating Tips:

Negotiate from "Dealer Cost" upward, not from MSRP downward.
Remember, dealer cost DOES NOT mean invoice price! Forget banker's guides, use internet sites to calculate the true dealer's cost. Once you know it, you have powerful negotiating ammunition. Walk in with research that cannot be disputed, not rules of thumb that can be dismissed by the salesman. Dealers may be quick to show you an invoice, but you don't care about invoice price, you care about dealer's cost + a fair 5% profit. They will say your sources are wrong and outdated. So verify your info with several sources. Compare MSRP of your source to the car's sticker, and` show them it matches. Check several online pricing sites, and don't let them shake the ground beneath you. Make your offer to them and stick to it. If they counter offer a little lower from MSRP, ridiculing your lack of expertise, don't budge. Tell them that's the deal, take it or take it, and be ready to walk.

"No Haggle" usually means "No Bargain"
If they don't haggle there are others who will. Many dealers use No Haggle selling on autos, and you think it means you have to pay their price. However, you still hold the Trump card, because you can just get up and leave. Some no haggle dealers are good, others use the guise of no haggle to charge MSRP on everything they sell. When people see "No Haggle" tags, they drop their guard. Many consumer advocates agree with me that No Haggle dealers sometimes are good, but not always the best deal.

If their "No Haggle" price is more than 5% over dealer cost, then it's not a good deal, and it's time to haggle.

Many people are too meager to haggle once they see the tag, so the dealer makes more profit, without the high pressure sales tactics. Many people walk away thinking they got a great deal. I prefer the dealers who just honestly come out and say "I'm sorry, Jeff, we just can't do business with you". Then your time isn't wasted, their time isn't wasted, and no one gets hurt. Some places refuse to haggle. Don't buy into a deal that's too profitable for them, and not value added for you.

Don't Be A Payment Buyer!
They love suckers who tell them they are "payment buyers". "Damn it I'm not paying more than $350 a month for this Camry, and that's it!" Well alrighty, then. They'll shave a few dollars off MSRP to make you think you got a good deal. Don't be a payment buyer! If they ask you "What monthly payment are you looking for?", you're being setup for the scam. Tell them that is irrelevant. What matters to you is the cost of the car, not just the monthly payment.

Tell them you negotiate the car based on its value, not a monthly payment.

Cash Is Not King!
People think paying cash gets the best deal. It's not true, they get cash from the bank anyway when you finance. It's none of the salesman's business, they don't need to know your payment method until you get into the finance office after agreeing on the sales price. You don't want them playing games with the selling price based on your payment method. Keep them honest, and get an honestly negotiated price. Then in the finance office, you can discuss payment terms. If you tell the salesman you are paying cash, sometimes they won't drop the price. But if you finance through them, they make more money.

"But Jeff, If you're financing through us I can give you a lower price on the car".

Why not give a lower price on the car anyway? Sure, he'll give you a lower price, but he'll just jack up the interest rate slightly, or "miscalculate" your monthly payments by $10 per month, or require you to buy an extended warranty and credit life insurance if you have bad credit. By paying cash, they cannot pull any scams or pad monthly payments, because there are no payments.

Don't Be An Impulse Buyer!
Here's another of my car buying physics formulas based on the experience of seeing impulsive buyers:

"This car is the hottest! We're selling them at $1000 over MSRP!"
Tell them you don't want a car that is "hot", you'll be paying too much, and next year it won't be worth squat, because the next "hot" car will replace it. Tell them you are not interested in the car, if everyone's buying it. Now you are being proactive, and taking charge. Just keep chiseling at all their statements, always have a comeback for whatever they throw at you. As for the Miata, remember the late 80's when it came out? Amid the hype, people paid $25000 - $40000 for an $18000 car, because of demand. I read of a woman who bought 2 Miatas at $25000 each, hoping to resell them for over $40000, and she got stuck, unable to sell either for any price. In 2000, suckers paid $4000 over MSRP for the Chrysler PT Cruisers, which are just Dodge Neons in disguise. Once the hype wears off they'll never get that money back, People won't care if you paid $5000 more than MSRP, you're car is only worth market value, which is a residual percentage of MSRP, not what you paid for it.

Wait until the demand drops before you buy
When they double the output and supply catches up with demand, prices may drop, so be patient. What's the payoff for being patient a month or two? Other than a potentially lower cost, you'll have more money saved up, than if you bought today. This will reduce your amount financed to a lower price, and hence you'll have lower monthly payments than if you bought today. Like Mr. Miyagi says: "Patience, Daniel-San". I recommend not buying a new high demand car as soon as it hits the showroom, or buying vehicles on backlog. You'll pay MSRP or more. When the air lets out of the hype, you are left with a car that has greatly depreciated in value. How many of those $40000 1989 Miatas were worth $20000 the next year? MSRP was only $18000. But if you must have a hot model as soon as it hits expect to pay for it. Wouldn't it kill you if your neighbor paid $2000 less than you for the same car a few months later? Also, when you sell the car a few years later, you'll take a hit. Those extra $$$ above MSRP has nothing to do with intrinsic value of the car. It is strictly a non value added over hyped profit for the dealer, and nothing more. "But I paid $30000 for it". It does not matter. Only the market value matters. This is why I tell people don't go crazy and be the first on your block to own the latest hot car, because you'll be the first on your block to lose money when you sell it.

Loan/Lease Calculators:
Read all about ALG Residual Values. You'll need this vital data to calculate your lease payments, and look up dealer cost for cars and trucks. Every person who leases use the same type of leasing software that the dealers use. Without it you're sailing the ocean of confusion, and they'll swallow you whole. I would not in a million years lease a car without using software first.

Always shop your deals around. Just because they write it up does not mean you have to sign right then. Chances are they did not give you a decent deal on the first offer. Ask them to give you a copy to study overnight at home. I'll bet NONE of them will, unless it's MSRP numbers. If they don't give you a copy, write down what you can, then go to the next dealer. Never sign a deal the first time they write it up unless you're sure you got the price you wanted based on this article.

Dealer Tricks To Watch Out For:

Don't fall for any:
Just because they write it down, does not mean it's true. The pen is mightier than the sword, and they put it to use. It's strange, we don't question figures that are written down. Our brain tricks us into thinking it's true. They keep on writing amounts, and you don't realize how powerful the written word is. They keep on nibbling at your offer, bumping you up, until you give in. But don't give in! Remember, your advantage, you can just get up and leave. That is your powerful weapon. It may frustrate you to use it, but if the deal is not worth it, walk away, no matter how badly you want the car. There will be other cars, and other deals, and some dealer will be willing to work with you. There's no better feeling than to have a scamming salesman call a week later and you tell him you signed a deal somewhere else. You can actually hear their jaw hit the floor. "You bought another car?!!!!" It's one of life's precious moments.

"We'll Beat anybody's price or we'll give you $500!!!!"
Sure we will. Just bring us a written buyers order from any dealership and we'll beat it. The problem is that few dealers give you this paperwork to go shop around, so this is why they can all get away with this. I'll bet no dealer has ever had to honor this one. It's the same with TVs. Most appliance stores will pay 100% of the difference if a competitor is less, but call their bluff. Circuit City gets different model Sony's than Best Buy, or Burdines, or Sound Advice. So it's rare to find the same TV at all the stores.

"If you don't buy these options, I won't get paid"
After you wipe the tears from your eyes, your response to a very unprofessional comment like that should be that you are not going to buy something you don't want just because "they are not going to get paid." Tell them to get a better job that does pay.

"No Payments Until...."
Here's what can happen. You see an ad that says no payments for 6 months. You go to the dealer to buy the car, then they tell you it was a typographical error in the ad, the newspaper will be printing a retraction, and it's actually only 2 months, not 6 months. That's nothing more than a nasty lie. Newspapers would go out of business from refunding all the ad fees for "typographical errors" that dealers lie about. Many ads have fine print saying "Not responsible for typographical errors". If they tell you it was a typographical error, tell them so was the deposit check, and grab it back on your way out the door.

"Sure, we have that green Mazda car you're looking for, come on down!"
You call the dealer asking if they have a green Mazda MPV. Sure, come on down we got it. But during your trip down there, they broke world record timing in closing a deal on that green Mazda. But look over here, we have one that's only $499 more...

"You're not going to find it cheaper anywhere else..."
Do you know how many times I've heard that as I walked out the door? It's their last ditch effort, usually futile. Historically, every time a salesman has said that to me, they've been wrong. But I also know when a deal is as good as it's going to get, and you should never be embarrassed and back to accept their offer. Just walk and say "You were right, I couldn't find it cheaper.

The Old "salesman gets a phone call" trick!
This was sent in by one of our visitors: "When I bought my car, he got a phone call at his desk. He talked just loud enough so I could hear him "...Why I have a young man right in front of me now that is about to buy it, I'm sorry. I will give you a call if he doesn't get it. What is you number sir..." I hadn't even made up my mind, but he did for me".

They can put the wrong date on your paperwork
This happened to one reader. "When I completed the draft authorization and gave it to the finance manager the receipt he gave me was dated 2-3-98 instead of 1-3-98. According to the terms of the sales contract, if I didn't provide the funds by 1-5-98, Toyota would provide the financing at 10%, over 2.5% points higher than my financing!" Because of the dealer's "clerical error", our friend could have ended up paying much more for his loan.

Always verify the correct date on every document the dealer gives you.

They can lie about factory holdback
Some dealers rely on the ignorance of shoppers to scam them. Few people know that holdback is a check equal to 2-3% MSRP, paid to the dealer by the factory once the vehicle has been sold. This is income for the dealer that effectively reduces his cost of the car. Yet some dealers will tell the customer it's a dealer expense, and make the customer pay for it, and now the dealer has collected twice for the holdback. Many invoices actually itemize the holdback, but the dealer gets it back.

They can lie, telling you credit life insurance is required.
Credit life is not required on car loans. People with bad credit are usually the victims of this scam. The salesman tells them they have to pay 18% interest, which is fair for someone with bad credit, but they'll lie saying they must buy credit life insurance. In Florida this is illegal, yet it still happens all the time. It's probably illegal in other states too. One reader was "required" to purchase the extended warranty, or the interest rate would be jacked up. If this happens to you, report the dealership immediately, or better yet, ding them on the customer satisfaction survey.

Watch out for the "turnover" or "TO" scam!
They use this one all the time. They keep switching salesmen to work on you and wear you down. It's harassment, and it's a waste of time. They have no intention of working with you, they just want to wait you out like David Koresh. This is called the turnover, as they keep turning you over to the next aggressive salesperson. Put a stop to this right away. Tell them you are on to the scam are walking if it does not cease. This is why I tell you to leave in a half hour if they don't accept your deal.

Are you beginning to regret not using sites like InvoiceDealers, Cars.com, Yahoo!Autos, Autos.com, Edmunds.com, MyRide.com and CarsDirect?

Watch out for the hidden rebate!
I see this tactic at dealers, and in newspaper ads. They list a price that is less than MSRP, making you think you got a good deal. Even the ads show good prices and in the fine print it says "prices include rebate". Some ads list a selling price but have fine print stating "dealer retains all rebates".

Ask them on EVERY car if the price includes the rebate.
Ask how much the rebate is, and strip the rebate from the price, exposing their deal for what it really is: Non value added. If you remove the rebate, you'll see they may be charging MSRP. For example, a car has an MSRP of $12000. The dealer's "No Haggle" tag says $10500. Wow, this is a good deal. But the car has a $1500 rebate. Now you exposed their deal for what it really is: They are charging you MSRP, which no one should ever pay. They'll say, "We're giving you a $1500 rebate". Not exactly. The factory is giving the rebate. So far the dealer has contributed nothing to the deal. It's time to make them give up some profit just like they expect you to give up your cash. Fill out the rebate and have it mailed to your house from the factory in 6 weeks. This way you know for sure you get credited properly. They like to steal rebates if the buyer is unaware it exists.

All the above scams are usually eliminated when you use the discount sites. We'll review car buying sites like InvoiceDealers, Cars.com, Yahoo!Autos, Autos.com, Edmunds.com, MyRide.com and CarsDirect to help you buy your new car.

Should I take the rebate or the low interest rate?
It depends on the loan amount and term. For loans under $15000, rebates at $750 or above usually beat a low interest rate. Dealers bait you with a choice of a rebate or a low % loan. Compare the numbers, you'll find that sometimes using a rebate to reduce your principal can save you more money than a lower interest rate. They tease you with this lower rate, hoping you'll take the bait, and they make a few hundred more dollars by financing you. And what if the rebate was $1500, and they told you it was only $750, and you sign it over to them in exchange for a low APR. Now you just lost $750. You can get fleeced here, because of their "Subject to approval" or "with approved credit" weasel clauses. The dealer can call you up a week later to charge you more interest because you "didn't qualify", but you also forfeited your rebate. This can be a legalized way to steal your rebate. You may want to have the rebate mailed directly to you so you know you got it. Do the math to see which is cheaper. Here's some examples from different loans, applying the rebate as a down payment on the loan.

Note the monthly payment is lower as the rebate increases past $750 on loans < $20000. It also depends on the interest rate.

Right Click Image, choose "Save Link As" to Download spreadsheet

Gratuitous Free Download! 4 Scenario Loan Spreadsheet This spreadsheet is one of the best ones I've ever created. It compares 4 different loan scenarios at once, giving you an at a glance summary of all 4 scenarios on a single 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper. The four sections are all color coded for easier use. Can't decide whether to take the rebate or the low interest rate? Want to increase the number of months in the loan or play what if games with the down payment? This spreadsheet is just the tool.

Never give a deposit until you and the Sales Manager have signed the buyers agreement!
The salesman acts like he's on our side now. I've heard this one too many times:

"Jeff, let me take this into my boss and see if he'll sign it. But I can't go in there empty handed. I know he'll sign it if he thinks your serious about buying this car. If you'll just give me a deposit check to show you are earnest, I'm positive he'll approve the deal"

DON'T GIVE THEM ANYTHING! You don't have a deal yet, so why give them any money? If you want to quit negotiations and leave, you have to get your check back. They do this scam so you can't leave. Tell him, no deposit until there is a signed deal. "But he won't approve deal unless he sees you're serious" Tell him the fact that you are making this offer is serious enough, you're tired of playing games, they are wasting your time, and you are onto his "deposit scam". Tell him you are walking. Trust me, he won't let you walk out. Don't give them any money until both parties agree to a final cost in writing, all fees disclosed.

Asking for you to give a deposit check does two things for them. First, it plants a foot in your door. You wrote a check, now you're committed to buy. They could try to further jack up the price and you are now psychologically conditioned to purchase the car that you just wrote a deposit check for. The other thing the deposit check does for the dealer is make a psychological hostage out of you. The only person that should be asking for a check is the finance manager in the finance office, after you have agreed in writing on a purchase price.

Besides, the salesman has no intention of getting your offer approved. He's coming back with the sales manager who is even better at selling, and the two of them will work on wearing you down. They will play good cop bad cop, just like a police interrogation until you crack. Nobody gets any money from you until an agreement in price is reached. Thus endeth the sermon.

This would be funny: Write a check for the deposit, but don't sign the check. Tell the salesman, "Here's earnest that I'm interested in buying the car. But I'm not going to sign any checks empty handed. I want to know that you're serious about selling this car. If you'll just get my offer signed to show me that you're earnest, I'm positive I'll sign that check."

If the salesman leaves you alone in the office, don't discuss anything!
When they go to "get your deal approved" by the sales manager, don't discuss anything privately in the office. They could have set the phone to intercom mode. Now the salesman and his boss are listening to every word you say from another office. Why do you think they leave you in there alone for so long? 30 seconds after the salesman leaves you, move out to the soda machine where you can conference until they come looking for you. Better yet, if he leaves the buyers order behind, tear off the bottom copy and place it in your folder. If you decide to leave, now you have official pricing that you can use to battle with at other dealerships. Remember, they give out written quotes that are MSRP.

The advice I give in this article DOES work if you are patient and motivated. Check this out from one reader who leased a Honda:

"I WALKED out of the FIRST deal at signing... they called me names, told me I was crazy and NO ONE would beat the deal ... I went to another dealer who discounted $1000 from MSRP. They disclosed EVERYTHING and EXACTLY how much they were giving me for my lease pay off. They even threw in the floor mats! I DROVE my NEW car back to the first dealership to get my deposit back... I LOVED IT!!!"

I just love hearing these success stories from people. And guess what? The dealer is happy too, because he made a profit on the sale of the car, resale of the trade in, and future parts and service. We want the dealer to be happy also.

Go On To The Next Chapter
Chapter 6: Close the deal, avoiding needless dealer extras.

Jump to any chapter. I suggest you read each chapter in order.
Chapter 1 Get your credit report, how to get a car loan, scams, online car loans, first time car loans, budget & loan excel spreadsheets, credit repair.	Chapter 2 Reviews of internet discount car buying sites, new car prices, find dealer's invoice cost. Get a new car quote.	Chapter 3 What to bring to a dealership, what to say, how to act, what not to do, what to look for at the dealership, and a glossary of all dealer fees.	Chapter 4 How to read dealer invoices, finding dealer's cost, how much to offer the dealer, buyers offer spreadsheet, examples, trade-ins.
Chapter 5 Negotiating tips, dealer scams & tricks to watch out for, dealing with aggressive salespeople, choosing between rebates or low APR loans.	Chapter 6 Close the deal, avoid needless extras, scams in the business office, extended warranty scams, options, buying warranties online.	Chapter 7 Actual misleading dealer ads, and what to do when you've been ripped off, customer satisfaction surveys, how I bought my Lexus.
CarBuyingTips.com

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