Car dealers hate us... You'll Love us!	Sell your used car online and get more than trading it in at Cars.com	Jeff's $avOmeterTM $9,004,018 Add your savings HERE!
Get a VIN Check See the basic information about your vehicle & how many records we have. Enter VIN to start: Search CarBuyingTips.com Buying New Cars How To Buy New Cars Buy Cars Online First Time Car Buying Tips Hybrid Car Buying Tips Extended Auto Warranty Tips Canadian Car Buying Tips Top 10 Car Dealer Scams Military Personel Car Buying Our Reader's New Car Deals Auto Finance Auto Loans, Tips & Scams Auto Refinance Tips & Scams Bad Credit Auto Loan Tips Used Car Loan Tips Get Your Credit Report Online Car Insurance Buying Tips Used Cars Vehicle History Reports How To Buy Used Cars Selling Your Used Car Used Car Classifieds Auto Auction Buying Tips Auto Leasing New Car Leasing Tips ALG Residual Values Car Leasing Software Reviews Government Sites Attorney General Sites DMV Sites - All 50 States Drivers License Sites Take A Break Rate Your Dealer Experience Free Spreadsheet Downloads Humor: Alternate Car Names RV Buying Tips & Scams How To Jump Start A Car LoserCars.com Crash Of The Month Gallery Furniture Buying Tips	How To Sell Your Used Car Consumer tips for buying, selling, and pricing used cars and avoiding scams Strategies to sell your used car with used car classifieds Cars.com & CarsDirect.com All about AutoCheck vehicle history reports and why you need to check that VIN to sell your car How to sell your used car and transfer title when you still owe money on your auto loan Our FREE bill of sale form for you to use when you sell used cars Negotiating tips for dealing with tough buyers, and your trade-in options at the dealer Donating your used car to charity Most people search the web for used cars. If your car isn't listed in a used car classifieds site in addition to newspapers, you could have a tough time selling your car. List Your Car on all Online Used Car Classifieds You never know who is looking where for used cars, so give yourself the best odds and blitz all the main online used car classifieds. Savvy consumers search for used cars on popular car buying sites such as Cars.com & CarsDirect.com. Sell your car there and you'll get $3000 more than trading it in. You'll get market value, which is $2000-$6000 more than trade-in value. A Mercedes dealer offered my sister $6000 less forher E Class and he wanted her to then pay full MSRP on a new Mercedes. A Mazda dealer offered us $3300 less than market value for our Ford Probe. Sell your car privately instead of losing thousands by trading it in at a car dealer. Here's our review of the major players. I'm a believer in blitzing the media and you should place your classified ad on these sites for maximum exposure: Cars.com reaches 67% of the online used car shoppers each month, plenty to see your ad. Your online-only ad with photo appears on Cars.com, and over 175 affiliated websites including Kelley Blue Book and MSN Autos. How It Works: You can add 12 photos to your Premium ad. I highly recommend it, now buyers can see how good your car looks on the inside. Premium listing offers your buyers a free vehicle history report, putting them at ease, selling your car quickly, and useful ad traffic reports for your classified ad. Favorite Features: Premium and Enhanced ads can be renewed for free until you sell your car. The Premium ad also comes with a 90-Day Money Back Guarantee, window sticker, and FREE Bill OF Sale form. You can update and edit, and or renew your ad as often as you like at no additional charge. Good search for a used car from private sellers, used cars from used car dealers. CarsDirect.com will help you Sell Your Car Fast by showing your ad to millions of car buyers every month. How It Works: It's easy. Enter your car info, upload a photo. Pay for the ad online with your credit card. You can edit or extend your ad any time for no extra charge. Favorite Features: Run your ad until it sells, edit your ad any time for free. Your ad gets preferred placement in CarsDirect.com premium used car listings. More cost effective and easier than advertising in the newspaper.

FACT:
You get more for your car selling it yourself, than trading it to a car dealer. If it's < 4 years old, dealers give you at least $3000 less than market value for it, so they can dump it on the wholesale market. Banks won't finance cars > 4 years old, they're worthless to dealers.

If your car is over 4 years old, dealers give you only 25% of fair market value!
If a dealer offers market value for your trade-in, they are making up for it on the back side of the deal in the form of full retail price, or wasted dealer extras. Anyone who thinks a dealer is really giving them market value for their trade in is living a pipe dream.

FRAUD ALERT: Read our fraud article before buying or selling a used car. There are scammers roaming the Internet looking on eBay, AutoTrader, and just about any classifieds site, no matter how big or small has been hit. If you know anyone about to list their car online for sale, or buy a used car from any online site, forward this to them. Don't agree to escrow of any kind without reading our fraud article! We saved one visitor from a $28,000 rip-off when the seller asked him to use an escrow site that we determined was fraudulent. When you are done with this section, read the article:

CarBuyingTips.com Guide To Check Fraud, Escrow Internet Fraud, Auto Fraud, and Nigerian Scams.

How to sell your used car and transfer title when you still owe money on your auto loan
If you owe money to a lender on your car loan, the lender appears on the title as a lien holder, and they are holding the title. To sell the car, you need that title, but you can get it from the lender after you sell it too. When you pay off the loan, they mark the title as lien satisfied, and send you the title. Suppose you owe $10,000 on your car loan, but your used car only sells for $8000. Whatever balance is left after you get $8k, you would pay off the bank directly because you're upside down on the car loan.  Sadly too many people are in this boat, and don't have enough to make up the difference to pay off the loan, so you can't sell the car then. But if you do sell the car at a high enough price to pay off your loan, then you just call the lender for a payoff figure and send in the payment. They mail you the title in about a week. Then you sign over the title to the buyer and you FedEx it to the buyer. You can give the buyer your car without title for now, and they can get a temporary white paper tag until your title comes in. Then the buyer can register the car with using the title. Auto loan lenders will not send the title to the buyer, they will only send it to you.

Great tip to make your car sell: Eliminate the buyer's #1 reason for not buying your car!
You should put the buyer's mind at ease by giving them a copy of an AutoCheck Vehicle History Report on your car that they can take home, which will prove to them your mileage has not been rolled back, or your car has never been flooded or junked in a wreck. Buyers are always wondering 3 things: What's the mileage? Was the odometer rolled back? (digital odometers can be rolled back by reprogramming the EEPROM chip!) Was the car ever in a wreck or junked before? It's every buyer's biggest fear that they will buy your car that was in a wreck or junked, and not disclosed to them. It's their BIGGEST FEAR. Think about it, it's probably yours too. Eliminate that fear, and you eliminate their #1 excuse for not buying your car. You'll be light years ahead of all the other sellers on their list because now you'll set the standard that all other sellers will fail. It's beautiful! By showing all buyers your AutoCheck report, it can clinch the sale for you.

Sellers are having success listing their car online, as millions of people see the ad. Out of state people move to your city, or travel from out of town looking for a car. At online used auto classifieds sites, type in a car to search for and they list all models fitting your criteria. Forget newspapers, their localized coverage is just too limited. List your car on the web so the whole world sees it. Use a site with a money back guarantee in case your car does not sell in a certain time period. Some sites run the ad for one low price until the car sells, a benefit newspapers don't offer. I've gotten many emails from out of state people for my car. I know several people who have gotten great results by posting it online. Buyers might be in town for a weekend to visit someone, buy your car, and drive it back home. The idea is to blitz the media, and let the world know you have a great car for sale.

TIP:Reserve a budget of $75 -$100 to sell your car. The world is not beating a path to your car so you have to beat a path to the world. Don't do just the usual one week $35 newspaper ad to sell it. Very few frustrated people sell their car using a one week newspaper ad. Like a key in a lock, if your green 1998 Camry does not appear during the one week that a buyer is looking for a green 1998 Camry, you're out $35. Your budget will get you into 3 different classified ad venues like a newspaper for about $35 for a 1-2 week run, and at least 2 popular internet classified ad web sites, usually $20 for a 30 day run. In newspapers, $35 ad fees are a farce, as they are stingy on the word count. To give any useable info in your newspaper ad, you'll pay $40-$50. My friend Steve got dismal newspaper response on his Corvette ad, yet he got 2 calls from his web ad the first day. He sold the car 2 weeks later to a LOCAL buyer who saw his ad on the web, not the newspaper! He still got emails even after he sold the car.

Auto classifieds on the web are much more cost effective than newspapers as they are cheaper, and run 4 times as long. Why limit your ad to 5 local people who might want your car, when you can put it on the web where there are millions of people doing searches. For half the price you get 1000 times the exposure. A coworker of mine sold his Jaguar on a web based ad to the first person that emailed him. Web based classified ads have the advantage of your car appearing in a buyer's search of cars within hundreds of miles of their house. But by contrast, newspapers cover a small metropolitan area. Use online classified sites where your ad stays until the car sells. Don't park your car on a road to sell it, it can get vandalized, ticketed, towed.

Expect to get less than your asking price for the car, but more than any dealer will offer. Dealers scare you out of selling it yourself saying you'll get sued by the buyer, or you'll get robbed or raped (very popular to use on the girls). Sure there's risk, but I'm more scared at the ATM. You'll have problems like no shows, so be patient. Some people are not comfortable with strangers at their house, knowing their phone number. But millions of people list their phone number in papers all the time. I just don't think it's as bad as the dealers claim: "Hey Jeff, I'd like to come check out that car of yours tonight, if my parole officer will allow it".

Right Click Image, Choose "Save Target As" to Download spreadsheet

Used Car Bill Of Sale Form This useful Excel spreadsheet form is actually 2 forms in one. The first spreadsheet is a Used Car Bill Of Sale, which takes the guesswork out of trying to figure out what information you need when transferring title of a car from the seller to the buyer. The second form is a Deposit Slip form, similar to the Bill Of Sale. The deposit slip is used as a written confirmation between the buyer and the seller itemizing the selling price of the car, the buyer's initial deposit, and how much the buyer still owes on the used car. The deposit buys you time while you go to the bank to get a bank draft. This form REQUIRES EXCEL97 or later.

Fix Up Your Car Before you sell It
Put a good wax job on the car, vacuum the inside, and gloss up the tires, appearance is everything. If there's any burnt lights or fuses, take care of it. Buyers get picky once they see little things like burnt bulbs are not replaced. Consider adding a few accessories to the car to make it even more attractive, like The Club steering wheel lock or other perks.

Car Dealers And Their Trade-In Scams
Don't fall for the car dealer's Jedi mind tricks. If they offer you market value for your trade-in, they are making up for it by charging you MSRP for the car, or padding on needless overpriced extras. Dealers love to convince you not to sell privately, that you'll be raped, mutilated, and dumped off I-95. I'd prefer that to the treatment at some car dealers. They use scare tactics so they can low ball you on your trade-in and rape you themselves. Sure buyers will talk you down in price too, but they are not as good as a dealer, and you have done your research. Just make sure there are a couple of able bodied men around in case trouble erupts. I've never seen a problem. NEVER let buyers test drive your car alone, even if they leave their car behind as collateral. Your insurance won't cover damage that occurs from another driver if they are not family, and people can bring a stolen car, leave that behind, and steal your car! Always go with the car. Verify they have a valid drivers license and insurance. If you let an unlicensed driver behind the wheel, an accident happens, and they kill someone, you could be at fault. If they want to bring your car to a mechanic, go with them. A mechanic is not an appraiser, so don't expect an appraisal.

Are You Buying A New Car After Selling Your used Car?
Some people sell their car to get cash to buy a new one. Be sure to use the new car buying sites like InvoiceDealers, Cars.com, Yahoo!Autos, Autos.com, Edmunds.com, MyRide.com and CarsDirect. We review them all in Chapter 2 of our new car buying guide. Before looking for a new car, you better know how much you have to spend. If you have cash already, you're set. But if you expect to borrow money for a car, you'll need to qualify for a loan first. The banks usually want to know what car you are buying and will lend you money to buy any new car, or a used car up to 4 years old. Any older and no loan. This is why you are at a disadvantage when you trade in a used car over 4 years old at a dealer, because the car is worthless to them.

Best Sites For New Car Loans and Used Car Loans Use these sites to lookup interest rates and get your loan from the lowest APR site.

Capital One Auto Finance Apply online, and when approved, they mail you a Blank Check® so you can buy any used car from a private party without paperwork hassles. Benefits compared to dealer financing: APR is lower than dealers. Check auto loan rates. Apply online 24 hours, get a response in minutes. It's a painless way to buy a used car from other people. Auto Refinancing Loans for your current car loans. No fees, or early payoff penalties. Click here to calculate your vehicle loan payment. Click Here to Visit Capital One Auto Finance Blank Check® is a registered trademark of Capital One Services, Inc.

Complete HSBC's easy on-line application. Your auto loan rate will be locked for 45 days from the day your application is approved so you can shop for the car of your dreams with confidence. HSBC's TurboCheckSM enables you to purchase a new car from car dealerships, eBay, and more. HSBC Auto Finance offers competitive rates to car loan customers of all credit types. Low APR, No app fees New Car Loans, Used Car Loans. Apply & receive HSBC's TurboCheckSM overnight at no charge. Easy loan application with an instant response. Most credit decisions are made within 60 seconds. Refinance your car loan HSBC can drop your car loan APR. Click Here to Visit HSBC Auto Finance

Create your own web page to help sell your car

I got >40 hits daily on my page, even people from out of state emailed me saying they'll be in town to look at it. You already have home page capability with your ISP accounts. Your provider usually gives you disk space on their server to create your home pages. If you already have a website, just add a page and provide a link to it, or advertise it on the index page. It's a great second form of advertising. You can get real sporty with your ad also, just look at mine. I scanned in pictures, and drawings, added an online VIN# Search report which calms buyer nerves. Click on the Trans AM GTA to see the web page I used to sell my car.

Maintain Good Maintenance Records
A powerful selling tool is a neat notebook with all your maintenance records, especially oil changes. Every time your car is serviced, add the receipt to the notebook, you'll never lose track. When people see your notebook with maintenance records, it makes a good impression, and they're more likely to buy from you. How many sellers did they visit who were as organized as you with your AutoCheck report and your maintenance records? Probably none at all. Remember, you are competing with thousands of other local used car sellers. It's even more important when you are selling a Camry or Accord to separate yourself from the crowd, because these are the most common cars out there, a dime a dozen. I would not sell a car without an AutoCheck Report.

Create a COLOR flyer about your car to give to possible buyers. Flyers have more detail than you can afford to put in a newspaper ad. I just printed out the web page I created for my car in color that has photos, and all the particulars of the vehicle. If you were the only owner and non-smoking, then make it known. People like cars with only one owner, it's easier to trace what might have happened to it, and non-smokers tend to be cleaner people who take better care of their cars. If your car is a standard, expect less cash than an automatic, as clutches are good for 4-5 years. It may be clutch time soon, so you'll have a much harder time selling your car. Besides, most drivers can't drive manual transmissions, only automatic.

Make sure your tires are all properly inflated!

You'll get morons who come to see your $10,000 car, but they only have $5000. They expect you to sell them the car for $5,000 because they think it's not worth $10,000, even though you know it is because you researched it. If they give you a sob story that they have no money, tell them it's not a good enough reason for you to drop below fair market value. Ask them why they came if they had much less money than your firm asking price. Now you have them on the defensive. Your car is still worth market value no matter what money the buyer has. This is why I recommend that in your ads, you mention that the price is firm.

It's the dumbest thing a seller can do, and everyone does it. It makes you look desperate. Say "Firm" or "Non-Negotiable". You'll still get plenty of leads, I always do, and never had a problem. Also, be prepared to let people walk. My wife drove me crazy every time I let a buyer walk, but you must be strong. Why should you give up $1000 in market value just because someone you don't even know claims your car is not worth it? Did they do any research? No, most people negotiate the price for a used car completely from the hip, with no clue as to its real value, trying anything to chisel down the price.

Ask the buyer where they got their figure from, and what research it was based on, they'll have no answer. They'll say, "other people are selling it for less". So ask them "why didn't you buy the other guy's car?" Most people don't know how to price their cars, so most people's selling price is wrong to begin with, they can't use that as a guide. You are using the car pricing sites with used car blue book values so you have done proper research and know what your car is worth.

Point out that you have the AutoCheck Vehicle History Report and the maintenance records, and that other sellers don't have that. Now they know you are organized, confident about the value of your car, and they should take the deal, or risk going to another seller who did not upkeep the maintenance on their car. Even worse, the other seller may have rolled back the odometer. Tell them they are letting the best deal they have found so far, slip right through their fingers. Create the sense of urgency for them. They need to buy this car right now, or they'll lose the deal of their life forever! Remind them your ad just started and you have many more people after them to look at it. Now the buyer will have a sense of urgency. Isn't life grand? The key here is proper planning. Don't list your car until you've researched it's value, created your maintenance records notebook, and figured out how you'll respond to every one of their statements. Have a friend act as a buyer and practice negotiating. You'll learn a lot that way.

Think twice about trading in your used car at the dealer!
Dealer's never give you fair market value for your car. They offer wholesale value, which is much less. This is so they can sell your trade-in and make a profit. Used car pricing sites list "Market Value" and "Wholesale" or "Trade-In" values, which are much less. Dealers make it appear they are giving you a lot for your trade-in, but don't be fooled. They are shuffling dollars around, charging you MSRP, or higher interest, or piling on wasted extras like rust proofing, paint sealant, and extended warranties. They cry on your shoulder that they'll get nothing on your trade-in. They'll offer you $1500- $6000 less than market value. If they don't repair the car, it's all profit. As you cry over their "loss", here's how they profit from you and the next owner of your trade-in: They put your trade-in on the lot a week later for $1500 more than fair market value, and stick a "No Haggle" price tag on the windshield. Now, they'll profit $3000 on your trade-in (less their cost to repair it) thanks to the $1500 contribution made by both you and the future buyer. In 1992, we traded a Toyota Celica for a 1992 Probe at a dealer for $4500. The market value was $4600-$4800, not bad. They cried on my shoulder about losing money on the trade-in. One week later, it was on their lot for $6500 and a "No Haggle" sticker on it. The car's only worth $4800!! We even saw it in their ad, and it said, "$6500 No haggle price, for your maximum possible savings". What a joke!

One reader had a 1992 Subaru with a street value of $9300, trade-in value $5500. A dealer offered him $2500 for it, whining about reconditioning cost, floor space, etc. The dealer would have profited $6800 from the trade-in alone!

Always treat your purchase of a car and trade-in as 2 separate deals. A trade-in gives dealers 2 variables in the sales equation. By paying cash with no trade-in, everything is on the table, the dealer has no where to run, nowhere to hide. He can't play cash flow shell games, giving you "A good deal" on your trade-in, but fleecing you in the back end of the deal. Tell them you are not trading and negotiate a selling price for the new car. Now they have no "shells" for the cash flow shell game. After they agree on the new car selling price, tell them you want to trade in and how much you want. They will either accept it or not, but at least you'll know how low they will really go on the selling price of the new car.

Your Trade-in is worth a fixed amount no matter what you buy, whether you finance through them, whether you buy extended warranties or optional extras. Don't let them condition you into thinking otherwise.

Seasonal Pricing of 4 wheel drive vehicles
Ifyou are trading in a 4 wheel drive vehicle such as a Ford Explorer in the northeast, an Explorer can be worth more in the fall than in the spring because it can be considered a seasonal vehicle due to the 4 wheel drive. There is a big wholesale market out there for cars which are 3 years or older that will change over the seasons. In the spring and summertime when a 4 wheel drive is not really necessary, you may get less for the vehicle than you would in November when there could be buyers for them.

Even with "book" prices, it's difficult to determine the value of your trade-in, because each car is different. Mileage and wear and tear are the biggest issues. "Trade in buyers" concentrate on the trade in, and fall asleep during the rest of the deal blinded by the cash flow shell game the dealer played on them. The dealer just got their money on the back end, not the front. People brag about getting more than what they asked for their trade in, chuckling that they screwed the dealership. Poor saps. By selling the car yourself, you have eliminated one method for the dealer to cheat you out of your money. Besides, don't you want to keep as much profit as possible out of their pockets and in yours? Don't feel guilty, they are trying to keep money out of your pocket. Now you saved 33% of the money you could have lost. You can use that money toward a down payment if you can get transportation until you buy a car. Or, sell the car after you buy the new car and send in the cash as a large "principal" payment. Verify your bank allows you to make extra principal payments.

Trade-in Tax Analysis
Don't nix the idea of a trade-in without analyzing your situation, there's a tax advantage to trade-ins. You usually pay sales tax on the difference between the new car and the trade-in. If you are buying a $25,000 car and your trade-in is worth $10,000, in Florida you'll pay 6% tax on the difference. Total outlay is ($25,000 - $10,000) + tax on difference = $15,000 + $900 in tax = $15,900. But supposing you got $12000 for your trade-in selling it yourself through the newspaper. Now the total cash outlay is $25,000 + tax = $25,000 + $1500 in tax = $26,500. When you sell your old car and receive the $12000, your effective cash outlay will now be $26,500 - $12,000 = $14,500. You can see in this case that you saved $1500 selling the old car yourself. This was only possible because you were able to sell the car for $2000 more than the dealer would give you for it. If you can't get more than the dealer will offer you, then you are better off trading in the car, because you'll benefit by the savings in sales tax.

"Appraising" your car at the dealership: The Oscar Goes To...
They put on a good show. The "appraiser" will rub his fingers over every dent and dimple like he's having foreplay with your car. They do this to panic you, setting you up for a low ball quote. They'll say "All these scratches, I don't know how much we can give you. We'll lose money on this trade-in, if we can sell it at all." So why does he want the trade-in so bad? Tell them it's normal wear for that age. That's why you're not asking $20000 for it. Tell them you are not trading in and watch them try to convince you to trade in a car "they'll lose money on". Dealers go to auctions to sell acquired trade-ins and hunt for fresh used cars. They use auctions as to figure out car values, based on market conditions. One other weapon the dealer has is your maintenance history. If you are trading in a GM at a GM dealership, they can get on the network and pull up your maintenance records. Remember that brake job and transmission motor mount they suggested you get when you brought it in 2 months ago? All those remarks are entered into the network. Any dealer can get that data and use it against you.

We'll Give You Top Dollar For Your new Car!
Beware of dealer TV ads claiming they'll pay you "Top Dollar" for your trade-in. They use psychology to let your brain trick you into thinking you'll strike it rich. Your definition of top dollar is different from theirs. Your definition of top dollar is fair market value, but their definition is wholesale value. You'll never get fair market it's the laws of physics. You can't get blood from a stone, and you'll never make money on a trade-in selling it to a dealer. They may offer more than market value, and you're celebrating in the end zone so you failed to see they charged you full MSRP for the car, or added wasted extras. Those who ignore the rules of this game are in for a shock when the dealer makes their offer. You'll complain it's too low, and that their ad said "Top Dollar", but they'll say "This is top dollar. This is as high as we can go. We have to resell it too, you know. I don't think we'll even make a cent on it". Do you really think these dealers are spending thousands of dollars on TV ads for a loss? They advertise because buying and reselling decent used cars is profitable. Their ads reel you in and they offer you "Top Dollar".

There should be a law banning dealers from using the words "Trade-in" and "Top Dollar" in the same sentence.

Where do the "beater" Trade-ins go?
"We'll give you $4000 for ANY trade-in. If you can drive it in here, we'll give you $4000!" They get their share of beaters. I created a term years ago: Losermobiles^TM. Dealers have no use for losermobiles. They can't sell them. They keep the better cars, and sell them for more than market value. Losermobiles are sent to sleaze ball buy here pay here, lots. I don't know what they would do without their black spray paint. They spray paint engine wires and engine compartment with black paint to make it look clean. I bought a Firebird from a place like that once, and they had painted the engine wires, even over some labels. They get cars from wholesale auctions, who get cars that were rejected by real car dealers. If you buy a used car from a dealer instead of a private person, you may have better luck at new car dealers, who keep the better used cars. You'll pay more, but you usually receive a warranty of 3 months, far better than the "30 feet or 30 seconds" warranty some other lots may offer you.

Are You Upside-down On Your Loan?
Here is another reason not to trade in cars at a dealer. Too many people are upside down on their current loans. If you are upside down on your current car loan you are at a financial disadvantage, and you should not be buying a new car.

A person who is upside-down on a loan and looking for a new car is a victim.

Put down 20% when you buy a new car. You should payoff your current loan until the car is worth more than what you owe on it. Payoff your balance BEFORE you trade in your car. Any loan balance due on a trade-in is must be paid by you. The dealer finances the amount you still owe into the new loan. How the dealer hides these dollars will not relieve you of your obligation to that balance. Don't finance it into your new purchase/lease as this increases your payment.

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